After Pismo Beach, a long 71-mile day was waiting for us. We had no idea what was waiting at the end of it. On this stage we watched one of the most beautiful sunsets in California, had our first flat tire on Halloween and finally reached Los Angeles. What Hollywood made me feel, I am keeping for the end :)
- RefugioPismo Beach → Refugio BeachA 71-mile day. Night: Refugio Beach, a $10 hiker-biker site and an amazing sunset.
- GoletaRefugio → Goleta → CarpinteriaHalloween decorations at Starbucks and a phone call with my mom. Night: Carpinteria State Beach, with its "no check-in before 4 pm, out by 9 am" rule.
- 31 OctoberCarpinteria → Ventura → Leo CarrilloIn-N-Out, Starbucks and our first flat tire. Night: Leo Carrillo State Park, with Malibu right next to us.
- Los AngelesLeo Carrillo → Santa Monica → HollywoodHI Hostel in Santa Monica ($38 a night), and the bus to Hollywood.
| Pismo Beach → Refugio Beach | 119 km | ↑ 1220 m | ↓ 1210 m |
| Refugio Beach → Carpinteria | 58 km | ↑ 180 m | ↓ 200 m |
| Carpinteria → Leo Carrillo | 85 km | ↑ 480 m | ↓ 450 m |
| Leo Carrillo → Santa Monica | 49 km | ↑ 170 m | ↓ 160 m |
| Stage total | 311 km | ↑ 2050 m | ↓ 2020 m |
I could not keep a daily GPS log: in 2011 power banks were hardly a thing, and with GPS tracking on the phone battery died within an hour, which would have made recording the rest of the tour impossible. So these are approximate values from Google Maps cycling directions along the route I rebuilt from the location points on my phone. On the few days where Google pushed the route onto other roads, distance comes from my own route and climbing from an elevation model. Ferry crossings are not included.
Refugio Beach · The reward for 71 miles
After 71 miles of pedalling we reached Refugio Beach. The campground was completely full, but the hiker-biker site, the shared corner for walkers and cyclists, was empty. On top of that it was only $10, and the view was unbelievable. Sometimes it is really nice to be a cyclist :)
There we met a couple who loved cycling. They shared their food with us, asked about every detail of our trip and told us about their own bike adventures. That evening I wrote in my notes: in North America people are really kind to cyclists. I saw it again and again on this trip.
The campground was completely full, but the cyclists' site was empty. Sometimes it is really nice to be a cyclist.
Goleta · Halloween and my mom's voice
The next day we passed through Goleta. My notes say just one thing: "The best place to live!" We stopped at a Starbucks for wifi; everything was covered in Halloween decorations. I talked to my mom. Everybody in Turkey was fine. On the road, that is the news you want most.
Carpinteria · A short day and a six-pack
It was a short day, and we spent the evening at Carpinteria State Beach. It was a nice place, but $10 for the hiker-biker site felt expensive to me. The showers took quarters, and there were no bear boxes. By bear boxes I mean the locked metal boxes where you keep your food safe from animals. And the raccoons were everywhere again; you can imagine the rest. The campground was inside the town, so the rules were strict: no check-in before 4 pm, and you must leave by 9 am. Luckily the store was close. We bought a six-pack of Budweiser and hot dogs. That was the best part of a short riding day.
31 October · A flat tire for Halloween
In Ventura we stopped for In-N-Out and Starbucks. My notes for that day have only one line: "First flat tire." After thousands of kilometres since Vancouver, one of our tires gave up exactly on Halloween. No better day for a horror story. In the evening we reached Leo Carrillo State Park. Los Angeles was 30 miles away, and Malibu was right next to us. I admit I was hoping to see a lifeguard scene straight out of Baywatch in Malibu. I even wrote that hope in my notes :)
Santa Monica · The best hostel in the world
The HI Hostel in Santa Monica was amazingly clean and really great; its only problem was the price: $38 a night. For someone who had been sleeping in a tent for weeks, that was serious money. But the location was perfect: in the centre of Santa Monica, within walking distance of everything except downtown Los Angeles. Getting to Hollywood by bus took at least an hour, and the ticket was $1.50. The wifi did not work in the room, but it was fine in the lobby; I talked to my family there. My verdict in my notes was clear: this should be the best hostel in the world.
Hollywood · Expectations and stars
And Hollywood... I will be honest: it was a disappointment. The houses were nice; other than that, I did not see anything special. Everything was expensive; even a fridge magnet was about $4. The Walk of Fame was one of the dullest places I had ever seen. Would I want my name on that pavement? I am not sure. The area around the Kodak Theatre was colourful and looked a bit like New York; but New York is much better. The next day we were going to Universal Studios. Maybe that would save Hollywood's reputation.
Would I want my name on that pavement? I am not sure.
By the time we rode from Leo Carrillo to Santa Monica, weeks of forests, cliffs and small towns were behind us. Now we were in a huge city, and there was very little road left on the map. Last stop: San Diego.
- Where we slept: Refugio Beach (hiker-biker site $10), Carpinteria State Beach ($10, no check-in before 4 pm), Leo Carrillo State Park, HI Hostel in Santa Monica ($38 a night). For their status today: Where we stayed
- Prices in 2011: Santa Monica–Hollywood bus $1.50, a magnet in Hollywood about $4.
- Lesson from the road: Hiker-biker sites are often empty even when the campground is full. The best perk of being a cyclist.
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