Choosing a Touring Bike: Does It Have to Be Expensive?

Two things mattered a lot on the tour: the tent I crawled into at night and the bike I spent most of the day on. The second one didn't have to be expensive; mine was second-hand.

A bike that carries the weight of the road should fit you and the conditions of the tour before it looks impressive.

Where I started: a second-hand bike

The bike was not one of the things I could spend a big budget on. I bought a second-hand one from a friend, made some changes to it and set off. Buying a proper touring bike to use for years is of course another option; my story is just one example that you don't necessarily need the most expensive model to get started.

I swapped the bike's flat handlebar for a drop bar. I loved having different hand positions, but while preparing I found out that it wasn't just a handlebar change: other parts were added to the bill too.

The first thing I'd check: how it feels to ride

A bike that looks good in the shop window and a bike that still feels comfortable after hours in the saddle may not be the same bike. That's why frame size, reach to the handlebar and saddle position are at the top of my list. Testing before you buy, and if possible doing a trial ride with the load you will carry on tour, is extremely valuable.

How I would build my checklist today

This post is based on personal experience from my 2011 tour. I've corrected absolute statements from the first version, such as “at least 21 gears”, “narrow tyres are a must” and “you need this type of saddle”: no single measurement or part suits everyone.

• An easy gear for hills: Rather than looking only at the total number of gears, I would care about a low gear ratio that makes climbing easier on a loaded bike.
• Tyres and wheels: Narrowness alone is not the measure. The road surface, the load, comfort and how the tyre fits the frame should all be considered together.
• Saddle: Narrow, wide, leather or gel; there is no universal winner. Judge what suits you and your riding position on a long test ride.
• Brakes: Disc and rim brakes each have their advantages. For me, the real point is that they stop a loaded bike safely, that they are serviced, and that spares for your system are available.
• Rack mounts: Think about how you will carry your bags, and about the load limits of the rack and the bike, before you buy.
• Handlebar: On long rides I liked being able to change the position of my hands and body. If you are converting, check with a bike mechanic that the parts are compatible.
• Fenders: If I'm planning a rainy tour, I look at function before looks. After the rain of the first few days, I had no objections left.

Where would I spend the money?

I set aside some budget for the rear tyre; I couldn't afford to replace the front one, so I carried on with the one already on the bike. The lesson I took from this: instead of upgrading every part at once, pick the places where you really need it. Adding expensive accessories to a poorly maintained bike doesn't mean you are ready.

Before asking “What is the best touring bike?”, I would ask: “How does it feel to ride this bike for days on end?”

A loaded weekend trial ride shows you a lot before you set off: from the saddle to how you pack your bags, from the brakes to the gear you'll use on climbs. The most instructive part of my training was riding the bike with its real load.

Further reading for the technical side: REI: How to choose a touring bike.

Keep reading
Bike touring gear list →
When to go on a bike tour? →